Rambling #3

Exploring wintry layers and colour today. I'd like to see more colour this winter, especially here is Melbourne where black is uniform. I think I'd go mad without a bit of colour. SO here we go.

Tsumori Chisato, Fall 2010, Ready to Wear

Issey Miyake, Fall, Ready to Wear, 2010

Tsumori Chisato, Fall 2010, Ready to Wear

Tsumori Chisato, Fall 2010, Ready to Wear

Memorable examples of Wearable Art

You can't deny that Christian Dior's shows are memorable. What I loved about the Fall/Autumn 2003 show was the silhouette, the bold and exuberant use of colour and the fabric details. From stiff and royal to sheer and sensual, this show was about extremes for me, and wearable art, without a doubt.

The way the silhouette is changed by the shapes of the fabric, is just like Westwood, and one of my favourite aspects of wearable art.

Sketch #11

I woke up this morning with an image in my head. A top hat covered in roses, draped in sheer, floating layers of fabric. I set about drawing and this is what I ended up with. Some aspects have changed from my initial 'vision'.

Flowers and wearable art at the Royal Flower and Garden Show, Melbourne

I don't have credits for these individually but all are from RMIT fashion school. As part of their contribution to the show students were asked to make a monument to water. There are some of the stronger pieces in my humble opinion.

Canelli Beans and dried noodles moulded on wire and glad wrap.

Reminiscent of both a ballerina and a reptile, this one is scaly and also feminine.

Lily leaves, bark, onions, berries and dried fruits and beans. The beans again forming a great corset surface underneath.

Australian native flowers, including Proteas, Gum leaves and Ivy. I would readily wear this if made from a more forgiving material, maybe in felt, for example, hand died with natural plant fibre, ooh that does sound good.

Lillies and bulbous plants were very popular at the show, and here they are used to add a definite 'wow factor' to the creation.

Here is a taste of other installation/floral artworks also on display. I think I would quite happily move into this study if I could. I love the Venus Fly-traps on the bookshelf, just brilliant.

Westwood says take it easy.

After catching up on the Fall (Autumn) ready-to-wear shows, specifically Vivienne Westwood, I say with confidence and excitement: androgyny, bright leggings, contrasting everything and a laid back approach is what you might see coming (I hope so, at any rate). I'm very glad of this, firstly because we're all too busy to spend hours meticulously putting ourselves together each morning, though admittedly this is what happens. And secondly fashion shouldn't be stressful.

Westwood's gals look as though they've had their blankets, drapes and shawls thrown at them and then been asked to shrug into them before promptly heading down the runway. This isn't a bad thing. I adore the way the silhouette is almost unspeakably sloppy, not the manicured, body conscious skin tight stuff we're used to. There are tight stockings there, and beautifully bright almost garish they are too. But what we see is the figure obscured by layers (and not the layers we're used to either) these layers go beyond a couple of scarves and cardigans (that were our usual Autumn fare)to include large pieces of fabric seemingly thrust on the models, to more curated pieces in which we see contrasting lines, patterns and weights of fabric just hanging out together.

Inspired by the Grimm fairy tales Westwood has chosen shiny, metallics as well as rustic knits which reflect some kind of re-imagining me thinks. The androgynous makeup, certainly, but the blurring of expected male/female dress could have been taken further with a few guys in there for good measure. Where were the be-skirted men this time? I guess it's been done to death. I never get tired of seeing cross dressing become more mainstream especially in runway shows.

HERE'S A SELECTION OF MY FAVOURITES:

Interpreting Collections - Spring

Spring 2010 - ready to wear

VERSACE

Again and again I keep getting reminded that "fresh" is just another word for "forgotten". In Versace's collection there are complex prints and vibrant colours. Colours which remind me of the '60s and prints which are a little on the psychedelic side.

This collection is exciting to me because it utilises icons from the past, little snippets which we're familiar with, which have been changed subtly. There are studs, pastels, big sunglasses and 'out-there' fabrics and what appear to be leg warmers in vinyl. Regardless of the wearability of these garments it has to be said that this is a risky move on the designers part. Not everyone is keen to return to the past, but this is something which the fashion industry does quite often.

These short skirts and tight jackets remind me of filmic depictions of the rock 'n' roll era, attitude, spunk and big hair. Metal and pout!

Spring 2010 - ready to wear

VERSACE

Spring 2010 - ready to wear

VERSACE

Where might one wear such garments I hear you ask? Well, if you're the party going type then there's your answer, however if you are the bookish, hard working type with some passion for clothes. You might take some aspects of this collection and interpret them through the "work lense". Probably leave the legwarmers for social activities, unless your workplace is suitably groovy.

Think pastel shades (shirts and skirts), a bit of vintage metal (definitely belts), bright patterned fabric for highlights (a scarf or two never went astray and a bright jacket can be just the ticket to brighten up the day). I fully intend to do some sketches to bring these thoughts into reality. Stay tuned.

Spring 2010 - ready to wear

VERSACE

Spring 2010 - ready to wear

VERSACE

Where might one wear such garments I hear you ask? Well, if you're the party going type then there's your answer, however if you are the bookish, hard working type with some passion for clothes. You might take some aspects of this collection and interpret them through the "work lense". Probably leave the legwarmers for social activities, unless your workplace is suitably groovy.

Think pastel shades (shirts and skirts), a bit of vintage metal (definitely belts), bright patterned fabric for highlights (a scarf or two never went astray and a bright jacket can be just the ticket to brighten up the day). I fully intend to do some sketches to bring these thoughts into reality. Stay tuned.

Bring on the beehives.

I'm unequivocally in love with Oscar de la Renta at the moment - and I thought I would share some of my highlights from the current Pre Fall collection recently on show in New York.

High waisted pants and ethnic inspired prints/embroidery - this outfit is simple and yet I can see it worn in a work context as well as to formal occasions.

If you're like me and you love a particular ite

m then you will find ways to slip it into your routine. With this outfit I can safely say I am salivating while I imagine wearing this to almost any occasion.

Below right is a striking lipstick coloured ensemble, I've included it as an example of a beautiful hue which I think will be very popular this season (Autumn in Europe/America and Summer in the East).

I hope this colour is picked up over here in Australia, I'm always thrilled to see new colours spicing things up unexpectedly.

The texture of this jacket reminds me if shibori and origami and all things ingenious and Eastern influenced. Kimono. Tokyo. Luscious. Fruits.

Hopefully there will be more to come of my reports from various collections. I intend this to be a trial appetizer to test the waters as it were. If this is interesting and relevant to sartorialists around the internets then I'll keep it up. If not, well I will probably keep reporting my reviews anyway.

Sketch #10

Sketch #7

Sketch #6

Sketch #3

A new twist on an Austen favourite. I was inspired by the exhibition Persuasion - Fashion in the age of Jane Austen at the National Gallery of Victoria this year.

Sketch #2

If I were to put this together I imagine using a combination of felt and silk for the dress and leather for the boots.

Sketch #1

I have a fascination with the past, but I didn't set out to draw a 50's pin up tonight, this theme just emerged - the hair was the icing on the cake as it were, a big, blonde cake. Comments welcome. More pictures to come, which, I hope will retain their skin color and not turn as washed out as this.

Ramblings #2

Browsing some online eye candy via style.com I have been salivating over Givenchy's Fall 09 Couture show. Riccardo Tisci has brought Middle-Eastern influences to the collection and some serious gold it has to be said. What got me so interested was the rich colour, see above. In my opinion these pieces also look very wearable, and comfortable, given that it is couture. The quote below details the designer's inspirations.

This season, ideas about Morocco, Berber tribes people, and equestrianism informed both narratives—not that the collection read in any literal ethnographic way. It began with fiercely tailored, padded-shouldered coats molded into the waist and over the hips in black velvet or patinated strips of leather—the riding element—and then moved on into sarouel-influenced pants, hoods, veiled and draped silhouettes, and gold embroidery with a Middle Eastern influence.

I'm still sold on the comfort element. These garments look to me as though they could weather the fierce winds of the Sahara Desert. Well the top one at least. The collection also included soft veils and leather, as described above, adding a distinct adventurous element. And where would we be if these spectacular couture shows did not transport us to another land?