Vintage as a lifestyle

I'd never really thought about vintage fashion and activities as a lifestyle, until I read Lee Tobin's article in Upstart magazine. It made sense that a generation, like mine, who reap the benefits of technology and live the fastest lives (or so we've been told - "they grow up so quickly" is the oft repeated line), to choose to pursue an interest which defies our consumer focussed society.

‘I think modern society popularised technology that was fast and to the point, but has lost sight of doing things beautifully. The art of calligraphy and letter writing was lost upon the invention of email and texting.'

Then there's the rebelliousness, hidden at first, but perhaps the stereotype of younger generations isn't completely wrong.

‘There is something subversive about wearing a vintage dress,’ Lovasz writes. ‘One feels one is cheating the fashion industry, one-upping it even.’

Below is a selection of garments from Autumn ready to wear collections, in which I see some of the fascination with vintage continuing. The lady-like silhouette has been present for a while now. It's interesting to see how these things morph and change over time.

Louis Vuitton

Dries Von Norton

Dries Von Norton

Christian Dior

Tough shells

These Autumn women have a tough exterior. Leather, earthy tones. Striking colour highlights their shiny outer shells. Leather gloves and boots, like armour, supports their slight frames. I admire the way the leather looks fluid - ruffles, pleating and surface textures suggest to me that Autumn is all about what's on the outside. Protective. Safe. Guarded.

Click for larger view.

Ann Demeulemeester

Christian Dior

Issey Miyake

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Christine Dior

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

I particularly like the fabric of this last outfit. It looks naturally died, but I can't confirm that. I'd like to imagine the large design houses are using natural dying processes, like eco dyes, in their ranges, but I haven't heard anything to confirm this. Would love to find out though.

Christian Dior: Shoes

A salivating selection from the Christian Dior Fall 2010 Ready to Wear collection. Needless to say these have 'want' written all over them. In big glorious leather letters. Mmmm!

Memorable examples of Wearable Art

You can't deny that Christian Dior's shows are memorable. What I loved about the Fall/Autumn 2003 show was the silhouette, the bold and exuberant use of colour and the fabric details. From stiff and royal to sheer and sensual, this show was about extremes for me, and wearable art, without a doubt.

The way the silhouette is changed by the shapes of the fabric, is just like Westwood, and one of my favourite aspects of wearable art.

Value in imagination

These were the words of couturier John Galliano in January this year, when asked "What do you think about the recession?" he replied, "There's a credit crunch, not a creative crunch. Of course, everyone is being more careful with their discretionary purchases. I am. But it's our job to make people dream, and to provide the value in quality, cut, and imagination". (Via www.style.com)

To provide the value in imagination. What, precisely, could this mean?

Is Galliano suggesting that the imagination should be valued more highly in light of the recession?

I don't think so. I would hope that the imagination is valued highly and continuously regardless of a small thing like the economy. I think what Galliano is hinting at is in fact the idea that the designer's role is to expand our imaginations (in the area of fashion) with their creations. They show us something new each season and its thrilling. Just as a designer gives attention to the quality of fabric, and the detail of the cut, they also push the boundaries of our expectations.

Whenever I have sketched a piece of wearable art, or a design, invariably my aim is to show something new, to improve on what I've done before. To see where my pencil will take me. This is where the thrill is for me. Not having the pressures of running a fashion house, I'm sure my aims are well met. I hope to include sketches here in the future.